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The abbreviation pretty much sums it up. From Crown Heights to Chelsea, New York restaurants are trying to figure out how, exactly, they are going to survive a second-wave winter—especially now that another shutdown is expected after Christmas. Some have invested heavily in their outdoor dining setups: Lilia in Williamsburg, for example, partnered with American Express to create a village of heated yurts. Meanwhile, Olmsted transformed its backyard into what it calls a Cozy Cottage, complete with heated tents, blocks of Himalayan salts, and torches, as well as kits of hats, gloves, and blankets. Others are temporarily closed, like Lucien and Atomix, or are indefinitely closed, like 21 Club. Many are just allowing takeout now, such as Gramercy Tavern and Union Square Cafe. The rest are taking it not just week by week, but day by day.
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The cultural toll is immense. New York City is one of the Thrasher shirt But I will love this culinary capitals of the world, with its restaurants amassing 76 Michelin stars. (Although any city dweller can tell you that many of the eateries with the most charm don’t hold significant critical acclaim at all.) So is the human toll: It’s estimated that 1 out of 4 people unemployed in New York State work in the hospitality industry. Although restaurants have only been linked to 1.43 percent of COVID cases from September to November—74 percent are traced back to private indoor gatherings—the government can’t control who comes into our living rooms, so shutting down nonessential businesses remains the way it can slow the spread.
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